The following is a some information we hope will be useful before you collect your new addition. There are various highlighted links in the text where you can find out more about specific items. They will leave with enough food and litter for you to get them settled at home. You will be given further/ more specific details when they leave with you.
This information is not exhaustive so please ask if there is anything you are unsure about.
International Cat Care is also a useful source of information.
Your kitten will leave having had their initial course of vaccinations. This involves two visits to the vets, at which time they are also examined for obvious problems.
They will also have been wormed on multiple occasions whilst here and are usually treated with a spot just prior to leaving which is a wormer and also prevents against fleas. We will give you details of this in your kitten pack.
Although your kitten has been checked by our vet and you will have been informed of any issues we are aware of, some owners will choose to take them for a “once over” by their vets a few days after collecting them to make sure they are happy with their health as well.
Your kitten has been weaned on wet food and dry food, details are below. You will be given enough to keep you going for some days and if you wish to change the food your kittens have do remember to introduce the new food gradually over a number of days by mixing it in with their current food in increasing amounts.
The kittens have had constant access to Essential Foods – The Jaguar this is a great quality food with a high meant content and is what our adults eat. We moved all our cats over to this food in 2020 and haven’t looked back. It is suitable for cats of all ages. I believe this link will give you £15 off but the landing page is odd!
They have also had Purizon kitten and .
Alongside the dry food, the kittens have at least two meals per day of raw or “wet” food.
I believe that a raw food diet is the closest we can easily get to the type of food cats would get in the wild. I would be more than happy if you decided to feed this. There are a couple of good companies that supply raw food:
(www.naturalinstinct.com) raw foods are easy to feed, just defrost and serve. They are easy to order online but are also stocked in various outlets available to see on their website.
(www.purrform.co.uk) not the cheapest but great quality food, including raw minced rabbit which I cannot recommend highly enough for cats.
We have used commercially prepared foods that are hopefully easily available to try to make it easier for new owners to get the same, at least until they can transition over slowly to something else.
I deliberately try to choose foods that don’t add sugar to them. If you look at most cat foods in the supermarket they list “various sugars” in their ingredients, I try to avoid these. The foods I have used are available either on the high street or from Zooplus, where I order the majority of my supplies due to it’s low prices, (www.zooplus.co.uk. It seems European pet manufacturers are much better at making high meat content foods without added sugar than UK. They have been fed the following foods:
Animonda Vom Feinsten kitten food – they can move on to adult food when they are older (9-12 months)
Animonda Carny kitten food – they can move on to adult food when they are older (9-12 months)
Feringa kitten food
Cosma Nature kitten
Iams kitten food – easy to get from multiple places
Your kitten will leave with some bedding that smells of home that should help them settle in more quickly.
I have tried various litters over the years and am currently mainly using Worlds Best cat litter for the kittens. Other natural clumping litters like Cat’s Best and Greenwoods we are able to incinerate or compost to reduce waste. Clumping clay litters are good but will need to be disposed of in the household waste. We will give you some litter to take home with you.
In reality most cats switch over to other litters very easily. They can often be encouraged if needs be to use new litter by scattering some of their old litter on top.
The kittens are used to uncovered litter boxes and covered trays without a flap but most adapt very easily to many other types of litter box.
Our cats aren’t very good at using their own beds, particularly when there is other furniture available. However, we find that most enjoy sleeping on and climbing up and down scratching barrels.
The kittens have been used to eating and drinking out of various stainless steel and plastic bowls.
We have priced our kittens to allow you to set up your own insurance before you collect your kitten. We have done this for several reasons.
By encouraging you to set up your own insurance you will be able to choose the company that you would like to work with in the future. If we set up 4/5 weeks free insurance, if anything happens to your kitten in that period of time which means you need to claim through it you will likely be forced to continue cover with the company we use to continue cover for that issue. As soon as you switch insurance companies when there has been a health issue in a pet any condition which has been treated/diagnosed prior to that change is classed as pre-existing and is usually excluded from the new cover.
Also, it has been suggested that it is not appropriate for breeders to pass new owner details on to third parties and this way we avoid doing that.
However, should you explicitly give us instructions to set up 4 or 5 weeks free insurance, we are more than happy to do that for you. Just let us know!
Your insurance should be arranged to start the day you collect your kitten.
There are a few things to consider when choosing your insurance:
- How much will the insurance pay per condition?
- How long will the payments continue for – is it lifetime cover for an illness or is there a limit to how long you can claim?
- What is the excess?
It is often a good idea to ask your vets if there are specific companies they find easy to deal with or who they have had problems with since they will usually have to deal with them.
Your kitten will be registered either with the GCCF or TICA.
Kittens registered with the GCCF will leave registered in my name. You will be given their registration card and you will need to transfer the ownership to you with them.
I am able to register kittens with TICA in the new owners name. I do this once the kitten is collected so these certificates are sent out directly to you a while after they have left.
You will also receive a copy of their pedigree from us.
You will be asked to sign a contract when you collect the kitten to ensure the kittens future welfare. This asks that you look after the kitten in a suitably manner and not rehome it without informing us (we actually prefer that kittens come back to us if you are no longer able to keep them). That the kitten isn’t bred from and is neutered. You can view our contract here: Demo contract
We charge £650 for our kittens.
Payment needs to be made before you take the kitten, either by cash or BACs/FP
If you wish to pay by BACs my bank details are as follows:
Karen May; 60-83-71, 02409315